Friday, April 1, 2016

Practice the walk of the feet in the light of the vision...we begin! 

From St. Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos

Left yesterday morning, 3/31/ at 7:30. We spoke with a newly retired fireman from KFalls. His Camino journey was a retirement gift .  No sooner had we gotten to the marker to head on to the second path to Roncevalles, we were baptized by buckets of rain and chastising thunder and lightening.

No deterrent for these two pilgrims! We trudged on 8.4 miles in unrelenting down pour. All an upward climb; reaching as far as our drenched water proof clothing and shoes could go! I was wet to my underwear. But, was one of many many others! 

We arrived in Valcarlos, Spain around 11:30.  Swam our way into a restaurant for some hot cocoa and a latte. Everyone there contributed to the soaking of the floors and seats...a mess.

Randy went on ahead to find the municipal hostel and could not find it. Everything else would not be open till 2:00 as it is siesta from noon to 2:00.  So we elected to stay in a motel for €50. We spread out our soaked money, passport and everything else. All that was in our back packs stayed dry. Just those things on our body and in our water proof jackets! 

What we did not know was.....NO HEAT until 6:00 p.m. For only an hour!!! Consequently, nothing dried out. Randy and I snuggled in bed for most of the afternoon to keep warm. Well, needing completely dry clothes and shoes we stayed at the found Muncipal hostel today. We were first  in!!! as soon as they opened at noon to pilgrims. We grabbed our perfect bunks and spread out like home, well, within the space allotted. I made us lunch/dinner in the kitchen, as our hostel home filled up with fellow pilgrims rather quickly as it is the only hostel in this small town. Our room having ten bunks. The second room fourteen bunks which they added six overflow beds! A full house!

Hooking up to the wifi was challenging. The password was ridicules long!!! Twenty numbers and letters!!! But, presto...I connected.  

Hostel living will be like communal living. Everyone fits in well. All countries and nationalities. Stories a plenty. Some frequent flyers others like us first timers. All for numerous reasons. 

We leave tomorrow early to reach Roncevalles.  13 miles all upward! This part of our journey will be the most challenging. A blessing....no back aches or aching shoulders from carrying our packs. No blisters either. 

We are exhilarated, not discouraged! Tired but not petered out!! Much lies ahead for us...



Wednesday, March 30, 2016


These are my little treasures given to me by April and Jennifer, V's daughters. A little something to remind me of my beloved friend, V as well as light to not add any weight! 💓
Lovely little town of St. Jean Pied de Port, nestled at the base of the Pyrenees. We will not be taking the route over the Pyrenees as it is closed! A fine if you are caught! We will be taking the alternate path. Both lead to Roncevalles, 28.4 km from here. We leave on the morrow, first morning light.
Buen Camino!!
Here we are at our hostel Buen Camino.  It is brand new, only
Opened since Monday. Marie Estelle is a lovely woman, perfect in hospitality! We shared dinner with four others, two sisters from Quebec and a father and son from Ireland. Loved sharing a Basque meal with them!

We are showing you our peregrino's passport that we will have stamped the whole way to show in the end we did it!! We have two stamps so far...

We are here at the beginning....

Well, we have made our way from Paris to southern France, through Bayonne, staying the night and on to St. Jean Pied de Port. What a lovely town nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees. Population 1,800.
We found an albergue (hostel) that opened for the first time on Monday. We are her first guest over night with two meals, dinner and breakfast. She has such a gift of hospitality!!! A delicious dinner meal, Basque. First home cooked for a week. Had endive salad with egg and walnuts.  We dined with four others; sisters from Quebec and a father/son from Ireland!

After dinner, I helped clean up which was a special time with our host. She could not get over my helping her and told Randy I was a pearl. That he should journey alone, leaving me here to team with her! I asked her if she is a woman of faith. She said most certainly, saying she says she is a Christian for distinction from Catholic. She showed me a place in a rock wall in her dining room where a porcelain statue of Mary is placed that she has had many years. When looking to purchase a place for her hostel, she wanted to have a niche cut out somewhere in the hostel to place Mary. But, as confirmation to her that this was the right place, there was a natural niche already there, which is where Mary resides.

There is a candle on a table underneath the statue, which being my Jonathan's birthday today, I asked if I could light this candle in memory of my treasured friend lost this month. She absolutely said yes and we held hands after the candle was light....HAPPY BITRTHDAY , beloved V!!! Miss you immensely!!!

Funny story. Our sleep last night was disturbed by a continued light shinning in our window. This morning when our host, Marie Estelle, asked how we slept? I said that the light shining in our room was annoying. She replied by asking what planet was I from (joking) did we not know in France they have shutters on the OUTSIDE of the Windows!! So no curtains are necessary. The people in the room next to ours came down and said the same thing about the light....you can guess the rest!!!

Obtained our peregrinos passport at information center. Received a map and info for hotels through to Santiago. Were informed that the main path through the Pyrenees is closed and you will pay a fine if you choose to go anyway. Sadly a few did that last week and had to be rescued. One couple tried just yesterday. They now have posted police. Serious!!!

Met a couple from Washington and from Florida! We all come from all over! A melting pot of sojourners.

Bought my walking sticks and did a little class to teach me the right and wrong of using them. Who knew??

Randy is still  cruppy. So we have taken this extra day for him to rest. Sadly we took with us that bug who has hit many back home. I am a week ahead of Randy, so I am getting better.

We left the terrible weather behind us in Paris. For the next few days we will have beautiful weather. In the high 50's. Sunshine on our faces! Tomorrow is the day we set our face and feet toward Santiago! Stopping in Roncesvalles, Spain and then on!

I find myself talking in my mind with an accent! It is easy to get caught up in the beautiful French dialect. Soon to shift to Spanish or my own language Frenish.

Buenos Dias! Buen Camino!!!
Love, Ilene and Randy



Sunday, March 27, 2016

Goodbye lovely Paris

Easter Sunday, Risen Messiah! Blessings and love to each of you.

Randy and I would have liked to have shared in an Easter service at Notre Dame. What are the chances of us being here for such a celebration? Sadly we chose not to for several reasons: awareness of potential terrorist attack, crowded metro, more likely not able to accommodate the crowds of people, security has been increased, going through all bags and purses, which I am sure will make the line and wait insane! So were remain in our quiet little section of Paris.

Friday, a very wet with rain, chilly day, three metros and a train, we chose to go to Versailles. Castle of King Louie 14 and the story of Marie Antoinette. With golden gates and roof lines; rooms fit for a king, it was impressive. It was said he was a very personable  king. What I enjoyed most at this site was the amazing art and their size! Some the size of the entire wall~one ponders how long did it take the artist? The garden grounds were most impressive as well. Again, beautiful facades, statues in grand form. I almost forgot the historical Hall of Mirrors!

Yesterday was a full day. Four metros later, we did a walk about in the oldest section in Paris, Montmatre. Very artsy and quite lovely. Older style buildings with ornamental iron on the windows. Had a cappuccino, of course with a pastry, of COURSE! From here, using the metro, which other than our feet; was our only source of transportation throughout Paris, we went to the Arch of De Triumph, Notre Dame (which was crazy crowded, long long long line for security, checking each bag). Randy and I elected to just view her from the outside as we had been inside before. Last but certainly not least..... the Eiffel Tower. This is such grand structure, vast, tall with such amazing design and architectural accomplishments. Magnificent!  At one point they were considering tearing it down, unthinkable!! You certainly have the total essence of the feeling of Paris at this spot. Randy and I did a picnic at the base.

Today, our last day in Paris. I enjoyed the romance of Paris, couples of all ages, kissing, hand holding, laughing. Layering it with the French language... lovely!! Baguettes in just about every bag, backpack or carrying a loaf just plain unwrapped  Not leaving out those loaves being in the mouths of many, including ours! Certainly not carbohydrate counters here! Flower shops on the corners, decorating the rue with their many beautiful colors and scents. Vegetable and fruits lining up in rows adding to the cacophony of colors and smells blending with all the sounds that make Paris a special place. Shall I also add the many many motorcycles parked everywhere? Our weather has had a gambit of everything,  thankfully no snow as was predicted.

France also has their daylight savings time change... today! We have been sleep challenged since we have been here, only to add another hour less. Not sure when our adjustment will show up.

On the train tomorrow to Bayonne, France, where we will stay the night, leaving on a connecting train Tuesday morning; arriving at the beginning point for our pilgrimage, St, Jean Pied de Port. It is so very close now.

Love to each of you!

Ilene and Randy