Saturday, April 9, 2016
As you follow us along, we are following our Camino path by markers along the way. A blue tile with a yellow shell and a yellow arrow set in the walls of towns and cities. A shell in the sidewalk, along with yellow arrows painted on the sidewalks and streets. Outside of a town there are cement markers with the same tile square. Where the path becomes woodsy, or just a rock path, there are yellow arrows painted on the trees, pieces of wood, or on the ground. Where they can place a shell plaque they do. There are times we need to be most attentive for when the road splits, we need to make sure we take the right one! At points you can easily miss your mark!
Our yellow arrow is now leading us to Puenta la Reina. We left Zurguirei almost nine miles ago. We made reservations ahead as we are finding the alberges are filling up quickly because of the weather.
There was a huge snow storm that hit between St Jean and Roncevalles yesterday. Praying for those pilgrims who were caught in it. Thankful we were ahead of that. We do continue to weather the rain we been having.
Reached our resting place here in Puenta la Reina. We have a private room to rest through Sunday. Attend church and read.
Last night was terrible. We started off with having dinner which was swimmingly good. After diving into 30 weight motor oil to find my chicken and potatoes, it tasted pretty good. I was concerned with my stomach not taking to the oil! Randy had his first flan, he liked it very much. I chased my motor oil with some plain yogurt.
In each alberge when checking in, we are required to remove our shoes and leave them at the door. At times it is very awkward. No room to remove our pack as it is so crowded. So bending over with your pack on feels like it could send you into a somersault.
We then headed up to our bunks and proceeded to have a terrible night's sleep! No, not the motor oil-
All languages become universal in the night time choir of an alberge:
Bass bass, lofty alto (top bunk) spring spring. If I had any composing ability I could make a musical piece to put myself to sleep. Instead I am kept sleep- less and then...all is quiet! As I lay there now listening to the quiet, I still remain sleep less! It begins again. Bass bass, lofty alto. , spring spring and with a putt putt!! Oh sleep where for art thou?
Today was not too bad even though we had another 400 meters (1333 ft.) to climb. What was most strenuous was our down hill assent of about 1666 feet. It was brutal. Uneven rocks all the way!! Makes my legs kind of shaky!
Travel warning: American woman (me) sees a basket on a table with what appears to be free hand sanitizer packets. With great appreciation she takes a few. To her surprise, it was revealed they were not the desired hand sanitizer packets but condoms. Both provide protecion, right?
So to each of you-
Stay calm and Buen Camino
Mucho Amor!
The Bates
Wednesday, April 6, 2016
Pamplona
Randy and I are staying in Hostel Hemingway here in Pamplona. It is where Ernest Hemingway stayed and did some writing on his book The Sun Also Rises. He returned here time and again to write and immerse himself in the culture of the bullfight, which he loved. We are midway between the old city and new. This hostel has an eclectic kind of a feeling and look. Blended years of themes, artists, music (in english) and bull festival posters from previous years. Kind of like our Britt Festival posters.
Pamplona, was founded in the first century B.C. It presently is the largest city of the running of the bulls festival. It takes place in July. There is a rather large arena that sets in the middle of the old city where the bulls run wildly down the city streets into. Good Lord. This is disturbing!
We took a stroll through the modern section of Pamplona and will visit the old city and its amazing Cathedral and ancient history tomorrow. Their Siesta seems to hinder us at times, as here in this city, siesta is from 1¬1:30 to 3:30¬4:00. Then they remain open until 8:00, which is our siesta time.
Randy said something odd as we were sharing a coffee and hot cocoa together. He has noticed Spanish women everywhere checking me out. I laughed, perhaps at my American attire, so not how the Spanish mujer dress here. They have a very feminine sense of style. No jeans thrashed at the knees. A lot of skirts with boots.
Or could it be, my completely free gray hair with swirlies all over, adorned with a purple Buff. One laughs at the wonder of it!
Did I fail to mention that I was introduced to two Frenchies, twins, same height and weight, in St. Jean Pied de Port, who have become my best buddies, lending support where I have needed, always just an arms length away. Yes......my french walking sticks! I am so glad I have them!!! The Extreme brothers.
If you want the RAINBOW, you´ve gotta put up with the RAIN- Dolly Parton
Love, Randy and Ilene
Pamplona, was founded in the first century B.C. It presently is the largest city of the running of the bulls festival. It takes place in July. There is a rather large arena that sets in the middle of the old city where the bulls run wildly down the city streets into. Good Lord. This is disturbing!
We took a stroll through the modern section of Pamplona and will visit the old city and its amazing Cathedral and ancient history tomorrow. Their Siesta seems to hinder us at times, as here in this city, siesta is from 1¬1:30 to 3:30¬4:00. Then they remain open until 8:00, which is our siesta time.
Randy said something odd as we were sharing a coffee and hot cocoa together. He has noticed Spanish women everywhere checking me out. I laughed, perhaps at my American attire, so not how the Spanish mujer dress here. They have a very feminine sense of style. No jeans thrashed at the knees. A lot of skirts with boots.
Or could it be, my completely free gray hair with swirlies all over, adorned with a purple Buff. One laughs at the wonder of it!
Did I fail to mention that I was introduced to two Frenchies, twins, same height and weight, in St. Jean Pied de Port, who have become my best buddies, lending support where I have needed, always just an arms length away. Yes......my french walking sticks! I am so glad I have them!!! The Extreme brothers.
If you want the RAINBOW, you´ve gotta put up with the RAIN- Dolly Parton
Love, Randy and Ilene
Hinds feet in my high places
Here we are in Pamplona! 42.12 miles into our Camino journey. Thus far it has been an experience. With a lot of emotional ups and downs, least to mention it went with the highs and lows of our path.
After leaving Valcarlos we made it to Roncevalles. OMG! Never has my body been under such extreme challenge with the exception of when Randy and I were in El Salvador for HfH. We climbed and climbed and then....climbed some more. I thought it would never end. Si, it did! We reached the summit into Roncevalles only to be hit with 50 mile an hour winds that almost knocked us off our feet.!!! We had to turn our backpacks into the wind so we would not get blown over. From the summitt we had approx. another mile to go which most thankfully turned us into our albergue. Relief and let down.
My first experience with 185 beds, in cubicles of four, shared with men and women. Not used to encountering men in their underware. Very little privacy, yet, it is part of the camino way. Albergues are running from €8 to €11.50. (Currently the Euro is less than the dollar)
Albergue Roncevalles was where a part of the film The Way was filmed. Martin Sheen was sitting outside smoking and the young female traveling with him opened her window and yelled at him. Of course they were staying in the hotel part.
From Roncevalles we arrived at a small town, Viscarret. Approx. population, 20. Stayed in a very nice Casa, €40. It was nice to have some privacy and a bit of a casual morning. Most mornings in albergues, pilgrims are up at 5:30 and out. We walked the sweet little town and had dinner. My first ensalada for a week. It was delish!! Tuna, olives, tomatoes, spring greens with balamic. And of course Pan (bread).
Next stop...Zubiri. Rain, rain and more rain. It was miserable in many ways. My rain jacket had literally gone kaput! Again, soaked through and through. Mud everywhere. Cold. Stayed in the Muncipal here. 18 bunk beds. It was hard to keep the room warm with all the in and out, rain blowning in and everyone´s clothes soaked. I would say it was a miserable night! You had to go outside for showers and outside for Banos. For me that meant, using the banos during the night.
Randy and I walked down to an outdoor clothing shop, where, you guessed it, bought a new rain jacket for me. Perfect fit and color...Rosa!! (pink) Randy bought rain pants as his were not working either. Word for anyone considering the Camino journey, bring good rain gear. We thought ours were, but, learned differently. My shoes are Goretex, but, rain was so bad, it was running off my pants into my shoes. Randy as well.
Here at this albergue, Randy met a young man, who with Randy´s help designed covers for our shoes that covered only the top to repell the rain. They were made out of strong plastic bags, cut in half, half for each shoe and holes poked for our shoe laces to go through to hold it in place. IT WORKED!! Interesting what you can come up with in dire need, with such little resources. We could market them I am sure and will not add any weight to your pack.
Trudging another day to Arre, where a pilgrim hospital has existed since the 11th century, 14 miles from Zubiri, but, only 3.2 miles from Pamplona. We had mostly rain, but the sun tried to show its might at times. Needless to say, reaching Arre, we were so tired, we were beside ourselves. Sadly, Randy had slipped on mud along our path and went down.....on his backpack!!
Arriving at the Municipal, which was so welcoming. We learned it had only been open five days. So the facility was great! Eight beds to a room. Showers and banos inside. Yeah!!! We did wash as we were covered with mud, well, Randero more than me for sure. We ate olives and Dorits for dinner while the wash was going. Too tired to venture out. We were in bed at 7:00.
On to Pamplona today. A short day! Came through La Magdelena, which was used by pilgrims arrinving to Pamplona on The Way of St. James. What is so meaningful to me is that I passed through the very fortified gate that the Three Wise Men entered through to Pamplona on their journey.
Randy and I have seen the most beautiful scenery. Lush with greens and spring flowers. So perfect! as if it all has been groomed. Quaint towns, serene, waiting to be painted by an artist´s brush. People welcoming and willing to chat, even if you are not understand a word they were saying.
Although, I must preface our scenery at times was hindered by our having to look down at our path to watch our footing. We encountered areas where water washed the path away and mud creating slick rocks. Randy´s view was the back of my backpack...green though!
But this I have learned: Life has certainly been depicted in our path along the Camino thus far. Some parts smooth and easy. Trials depicted as those parts rugged and most strenuous. Where the only view you have is the challenge before you.
Areas that have been washed out and are uncertain as to which step is the best, as you move from side to side. Times when you take a step on slippery ground and find yourself flat on your back, mud the remains of the fall. Areas where you trip or stumble by something unforeseen. Fatigue rendering you senseless that your keen ability to take any step has been stricken.
All this in our life´s path is the means to strengthen our spiritual muscles in preparing us for the course that lies ahead. And when looking back you find you are standing, still pressing on, learning and having such a sense of well being for you have overcome such obstacles and for me...have seen hinds feet in my high places.
Mucho Amor!!!
P-S- Hope I have not rambled on too much. Adios!
After leaving Valcarlos we made it to Roncevalles. OMG! Never has my body been under such extreme challenge with the exception of when Randy and I were in El Salvador for HfH. We climbed and climbed and then....climbed some more. I thought it would never end. Si, it did! We reached the summit into Roncevalles only to be hit with 50 mile an hour winds that almost knocked us off our feet.!!! We had to turn our backpacks into the wind so we would not get blown over. From the summitt we had approx. another mile to go which most thankfully turned us into our albergue. Relief and let down.
My first experience with 185 beds, in cubicles of four, shared with men and women. Not used to encountering men in their underware. Very little privacy, yet, it is part of the camino way. Albergues are running from €8 to €11.50. (Currently the Euro is less than the dollar)
Albergue Roncevalles was where a part of the film The Way was filmed. Martin Sheen was sitting outside smoking and the young female traveling with him opened her window and yelled at him. Of course they were staying in the hotel part.
From Roncevalles we arrived at a small town, Viscarret. Approx. population, 20. Stayed in a very nice Casa, €40. It was nice to have some privacy and a bit of a casual morning. Most mornings in albergues, pilgrims are up at 5:30 and out. We walked the sweet little town and had dinner. My first ensalada for a week. It was delish!! Tuna, olives, tomatoes, spring greens with balamic. And of course Pan (bread).
Next stop...Zubiri. Rain, rain and more rain. It was miserable in many ways. My rain jacket had literally gone kaput! Again, soaked through and through. Mud everywhere. Cold. Stayed in the Muncipal here. 18 bunk beds. It was hard to keep the room warm with all the in and out, rain blowning in and everyone´s clothes soaked. I would say it was a miserable night! You had to go outside for showers and outside for Banos. For me that meant, using the banos during the night.
Randy and I walked down to an outdoor clothing shop, where, you guessed it, bought a new rain jacket for me. Perfect fit and color...Rosa!! (pink) Randy bought rain pants as his were not working either. Word for anyone considering the Camino journey, bring good rain gear. We thought ours were, but, learned differently. My shoes are Goretex, but, rain was so bad, it was running off my pants into my shoes. Randy as well.
Here at this albergue, Randy met a young man, who with Randy´s help designed covers for our shoes that covered only the top to repell the rain. They were made out of strong plastic bags, cut in half, half for each shoe and holes poked for our shoe laces to go through to hold it in place. IT WORKED!! Interesting what you can come up with in dire need, with such little resources. We could market them I am sure and will not add any weight to your pack.
Trudging another day to Arre, where a pilgrim hospital has existed since the 11th century, 14 miles from Zubiri, but, only 3.2 miles from Pamplona. We had mostly rain, but the sun tried to show its might at times. Needless to say, reaching Arre, we were so tired, we were beside ourselves. Sadly, Randy had slipped on mud along our path and went down.....on his backpack!!
Arriving at the Municipal, which was so welcoming. We learned it had only been open five days. So the facility was great! Eight beds to a room. Showers and banos inside. Yeah!!! We did wash as we were covered with mud, well, Randero more than me for sure. We ate olives and Dorits for dinner while the wash was going. Too tired to venture out. We were in bed at 7:00.
On to Pamplona today. A short day! Came through La Magdelena, which was used by pilgrims arrinving to Pamplona on The Way of St. James. What is so meaningful to me is that I passed through the very fortified gate that the Three Wise Men entered through to Pamplona on their journey.
Randy and I have seen the most beautiful scenery. Lush with greens and spring flowers. So perfect! as if it all has been groomed. Quaint towns, serene, waiting to be painted by an artist´s brush. People welcoming and willing to chat, even if you are not understand a word they were saying.
Although, I must preface our scenery at times was hindered by our having to look down at our path to watch our footing. We encountered areas where water washed the path away and mud creating slick rocks. Randy´s view was the back of my backpack...green though!
But this I have learned: Life has certainly been depicted in our path along the Camino thus far. Some parts smooth and easy. Trials depicted as those parts rugged and most strenuous. Where the only view you have is the challenge before you.
Areas that have been washed out and are uncertain as to which step is the best, as you move from side to side. Times when you take a step on slippery ground and find yourself flat on your back, mud the remains of the fall. Areas where you trip or stumble by something unforeseen. Fatigue rendering you senseless that your keen ability to take any step has been stricken.
All this in our life´s path is the means to strengthen our spiritual muscles in preparing us for the course that lies ahead. And when looking back you find you are standing, still pressing on, learning and having such a sense of well being for you have overcome such obstacles and for me...have seen hinds feet in my high places.
Mucho Amor!!!
P-S- Hope I have not rambled on too much. Adios!
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