Sunday, April 24, 2016

Looking out from our albergue Santiago in Belorado.
Another rainy afternoon, a night and Sunday.
Promise of sunshine for the next tres days.


This postcard tells the truth!
We have seen mucho agony of de feet!
Gallon ziplock bags of medical supplies.
OUCH!

No, it's not butter!

This almost cup of mayonnaise was schmeared on my sandwich!!!
I scraped all that I could. Not only was is on both pieces of bread,
But, between my cheese, lettuce and tomato... here it is!
I do not do mayo!!! I was aghast and yet it was humorous at the same time!
They certainly do their oils well!


Keep watching for this sign as you journey our journey...

Cafe' con leche is served in a glass not a cup!
Delish! 

We attend church on Sunday's. They of course are in Spanish and very ceremonial. We took communion the first time. However, felt at a loss as it was missing the vital component- his blood (wine). Very traditional and perhaps old ceremony. 

I like sitting in these ancient cathedrals and think of those ancients of days. Sojourners like us.

The architecture; wondering if the architect knew God and wanted to magnify HIM! Like Michaelangelo. Or glorify one's own accomplishment, which is of no small achievement by any means!!!
The gold is hard to take in. Sometimes for me ghastly.  Only in that the towns then so poor and times of war.  It's a unsightly contrast to what actually resides outside. But, here these beauties arise out of each city after centuries, to be viewed by all who pass through to stop, reflect, pray, and take in that here lies a place to pause and give a moment's rest, as your face views edification of our Lord. 
A sanctuary from the havoc busyness of life.

We have most certainly gotten in the groove of things. It has taken a bit to learn to carry a pack long distance. I can say with pride...I can sling my pack over my shoulders and fasten up ALL by myself. For a few weeks Randy had to assist. I am woman now!!!

Randy's foot continues to be aggravated if we go too far. I would like to be further than we are, but, we journey together!!! 

Our mornings are slow! Which is an understatement. 
As we start out, we stretch our muscles, warm up by going slowly, allowing Randy's foot to get into the motion. 
Randy is layered up with vest, jacket, rain jacket. Less than a mile he is HOT. So stop, off goes the vest. Walking on. Stop, off comes the jacket. Stop! Off comes rain jacket on goes the vest. STOP, off comes vest and on goes the jacket. Then...stop! Out comes the ear buds and iPod.  Truly this is our momentum most mornings.  Then we are grooving! 

With these blisters, I have to keep walking even if small steps as it is painful to get going again. Randy catches up. 

The average age on the Camino is mid twenties. We have only met a handful of folks in their late 60's.

But, out here one can reach out and touch their soul! Commune with the Lord without much distraction, and that which distracts is only a reminder of who has created all that our eyes behold. 

It is a world set from the world we know. Life is basic. Needs are basic. For this season of my life it is most welcomed. 

Randy and I average under 40€ a day. Most days less, 22€. Albergues average 5-7€. There are days I prepare dinner and we shop for basics. There are kitchens in most all the albergues with pots and dishes. You cook then you clean! Many cook along the way. 

On our rest weekend, we spend much more. 80€ total for two nights as well need the rest and quiet. There are many who stays in municipal albergues the whole way. Other older folks stay in hotels all the way, but, they have a month to six weeks. 

My only wis  is that the weather was more accommodating! I really don't like walking distance in the rain! Miserable. On the other hand, I would be hating the heat! So I am learning to be appreciative I the rain. Which weather prediction is showing snow on Thursday!!! I am sure we will not experience it. I so hope not! 
We will be on the Meseta mid week. High dessert!!!
There was certainly assistance today! 

Top of  Santo Domingo cathedral

Looking back at little town Redecilla

Yes, we claim our peregrino status! 

Morning has broken, here is your new day!!! 

Canola fields, such beauty! 


Our path continues...at times I think I can hear Julie Andrews
Singing... The hills are alive with th sound of music! 


A snail's pace...

Yesterday was an off day for me. Woke up with a headache and my blisters were bothersome. We headed out early from a small town Redecilla del Camino.
Everything closed early when we arrived and was not open when we left. Consequently, we were not able to get provisions for the day.

With out food, a headache and blisters I was trudging along the way. Spying a snail that was doing the same, I smiled as I so related to that snail. It's lovely spiral shell, my Rosa jacket. It's feelers, like mine, gray tendles spiking out of my purple buff. Our bodies both sluggish as we look out at how far we need to go and how little advance we had made. A smile again, no worries snail, we will make it to our days destination! You just watch out for that boot!!

It was not far on our path that we heard the sounds of jazz! Yes, there was a saxophone busting out its  music with invitation to join in with any jazz step you want! I so wanted to, but, again, blisters have a way of impeding the temptations of the foot to jive!!!

I did make 7.44 miles, having found sustenance about two miles before we came into Belorado. Making it just before the huge down pour!

This is were we will spend our Sunday's rest. It is the home of  four 16th century churches.

Rolling back to Monday of this week: we left Logrono heading to Navarette. Stayed the night. Tuesday we arrived at Najera, Wednesday, Azofra and the to Santo Domingo. Where we were hoping to stay at the convent Abadia Cistercienses. Vespers were offered at 18:00. Sadly, it was closed till May. Staying in an albergue with 250 beds! Eighteen to a room!!!

We took a leap of faith and sent our packs ahead of us to Santo Domingo. 5€ each. We took our valuables in another light weight ruck sack I had packed from home. This day of journey was so easy! Could get used to this. We decided to do this once a week or when Randy's foot is unbearable. Which on longer days that is the case. And do you know what??? Oscar and Olive (our packs) were there before us! Glad to see them!

Santo Domingo is another ancient town with winding streets. It actually was challenging getting out. From here we stayed Friday night in Redecilla del Camino.

Coming out of Logrono- Randy kissed me at the top of our small climb with tears in his eyes as he said that he was glad he was doing this with me. There is now balance in our rhythms.

Arriving in Azofra, we had only five miles to walk in the pouring rain. I think it is worse when rain
runs off the hood of my jacket, onto my glasses and then down my checks. And that the view before me is not clearly seen nor enjoyed!! All the while the rain is trying to seep into my shoes...not happening! Having those plastic covers designed back in  Zubiri.

The albergue here was a nice facility. 60 beds in cubicles of two! Nice and private sleeping area!
I would say that the community gathering was a most convivial atmosphere. There was a young man with his guitar playing as all joined in in song! Oldies but goodies! English of course.

The Camino is broken up into nine regions. Thus far we have gone through the Narvarra region,  La Rioja, and now we are be in the Castilla y Leon region. The Meseta is predominantly flat plateau region which lies just ahead of us.  Each region is breathtaking! Many many fields of crops. Peas, something that looks like onions, vineyards, lush rich soil that is such a compliment to the various shades of greens.

To our great excitement, we saw a hot air balloon over the horizon along the mountain peaks. I was so thrilled! So very glad we did not miss it! I was pointing it out to others as they were walking past so they would not miss it!

A tender moment for me this week was when we shared our breakfast with a young woman from South Korea. It consisted of  Baby Bell cheeses, breadsticks and olives. She was so reserved at first, but, persistence won out. Her face showed strangely as she took her first bite of
Cheese, followed by shear pleasure of the bread stick!! The ordinary eating of green olives.
She was truly appreciative and we had a connected moment placed in the crevice of The Way. Where kindness is the only thing of value to offer to another.

I am sitting in a cafe, on my second cup of coffee; watching the comings and goings of activity blends of peregrinos,  this place and marvel that we have come thus far... 162 miles. We placed our first step on the Camino March 31. Have taken off six days and not to the end of April yet. I would wish our pace to be quicker. But...it is our journey and we are in rhythm.

All is well. My spirit continues to soar, my soul at peace and undisturbed by discomfort of my body.

Much love,
Elenea and Randero