This week was a challenging one on a few levels. Sickness being one and the beginning of two big climbs.

Randy and I both acquired colds, with me fighting a fever for two days it made those days of walking breathing intensive as my chest is so compromised. I felt as if I had taken upon me two extra backpacks and became a transport.

So, eventually the stubbornness in me gave in and we are resting in a village I most favor!  Molinaseca. It is a charming, peaceful and full of gracious and gentle people:  It lies at the base of the mountains which we crossed up, over and down. The mountains remind us of home.

This region is referred to as the Maragateria region. Having remnants of the Maragates culture dating back to the 7th century. Such a change in region and when I thought the kindness I have been greeted with thoughout our Way to be so touching,  I am intertwined with even more such kindness. I feel as if we have been coupled for many many years instead of a passing through moment.

Most of the small villages in this region are in rubble and have a sadness of abandonment. But the spirit of the life given to it by the few that call it their home seems to make the ruins rest with potential of being rebuilt some day.

We stayed in Albergue Gabino, in El Ganso.  Owned by a young main. His parents own the hotel and tiendo. We shopped for a few dinner items. Making dinner instead of eating the pilgrims meal again. They were playing some great music, which Randy shared with the owner some of his favorite
Music: Secret Garden. She was so delighted with the music, writing down the title for reference.

In the evening I participated with a few pilgrims outside listening to the lovely voice of a Wisconsin woman as she strummed her ukulele, all joining in the variations of "Somewhere over the Rainbow". A most melancholy moment as I gazed upon the faces that had glows as if we were gathered around a fire.

We continued to climb to Foncebadon. Just barely. It was a grueling washed out path. Rugged and areas of mud, difficult to cross without being sucked in! Obstacles of every sort. I will say that that there were a few younger ones who crossed and walked on rocks and BIG rocks like walking on water. But for most, an obstacle course waiting for twisted ankles, stressed out knees or falling. As one of our French ladies did. Having cut herself pretty badly she is resting for two days here in Molinaseca. I had much concern of Randy's foot as it is always present with a struggle.

We reached the summit- la Cruz de Ferro!!! It was a very foggy drizzly day with a wind factor constant at us. So with the all this combined we were so very glad to embrace the town of Acebo. Only one Main Street and not many options for albergues.

We were once again sustained and carried by heavenly hooks! Will need to rely upon those hooks for the next huge climb. We are apprehensive of the path conditions.

We shared our path with a Scottsman wearing his kilt. He appeared to be so comfy. A unicycle, who I felt had the biggest challenge of all with balance, his pack, rugged stretch of washed out road and uphill!!! He had my admiration and prayers for a Good Way.

Randy and I found rest for our feet, backs and mind at a few road side cafe'. Set up at certain junctures along the Camino, when you are feeling the weariness seeping in and you have many miles left to go. One in particular- Smile Cafe'. The young couple running this oasis could not have been sweeter nor gracious. Offering a lawn with chairs to let out the efforts of the Camino and take back in the blessing to be walking it.

With our coffee and tea accompanied a small scroll. Mine said "adventure". Randy's "be sweet". 🙃.
Upon leaving this refreshment of rest,  we were sent off with "have a good way, have a good day and have a good life".

Our plan as of today will be to walk a short distance to Ponferrada. Hoping to happen upon a knight at the Castillo de lid Templarios! A 12th century Templar castle. But I will refuse any offer to carry me off to Santiago, as we are only a niggle over 100 miles left!

My confession to each of you, is that I have picked up some habits not very becoming of a lady. It is the way of the Camino. What happens on the Camino, stays on the Camino!!! Unless Randy is too tempted to spill the beans!

It was written to me- Sometimes the most ordinary things could be made extra ordinary simply by doing them! This is more than extra ordinary. When I was asked today by a young man, "what have I taken from the Way thus far". No need to ponder a wee think. This I know and have said before. This path has clearly shown me a picture of  life. Each mile, each town, village and city a mile post, representative of joy, peace, struggle, illness, loss, or strife. How we cross each section is what we begin the next with. But, never, ever are we alone on our journey. Even when we choose a section of solitude.