What a week. Covered 74 miles on the Meseta. Constant wind blowing. Yet, what a beautiful part of our journey! High desert with blooming flowers of reds, purples, whites and yellow. We tried to take it all in.
Randy and I were just saying if anyone told us thirty years ago that we would be taking a 500 mile walk in Spain, we would have responded with a huge laugh. Today, we stand in the center of this sweet little town...giving thanks for our health and stepping out to such an adventure!!!
My husband can crack me up at times. It appears he has the same effect on others. As he takes to the paved highway instead of the path hoping it would be the path of least resistance to his foot, ear buds connected to the iPod...he begins his marching to the beat, soon his walking stick leaves the pavement and becomes part of Randy's one man band, waving in the air!
There were several pilgrims watching from the lower path that were pointing, smiling and laughing as the man on the highway was offering entertainment. I am not sure what the lone cars thought as they passed by. Randy was happy and clearly expressing it!
When we arrived in Sahagun, we quickly dropped our packs to head out to visit the citt. Randy got a haircut at the barber. He was so glad for it. Was struggling with his long short hair look.
We scathed the huge down pour that rushed us into our albergue. Sat the evening in the communal area, visiting, sharing a glass of vino, everyone eating each other's food. So much activity and happiness! Our big fat peregrino family!!!
We arrived by surprise in El Burgo Ranero. Not intended for our days walk. Oscar and Olive were sent ahead to Calzadilla de los Hermanilles.
Stopping to have a coffee, I happen to note the name of the village, which was not on our route!!!
We had taken the alternate route by mistake. If we wanted to meet up with our back packs we had to go 24 km to get to the town were we sent them. After almost nine miles, another 13 miles was just not going to happen.
Choices: take a taxi or see if we could intercept our bags and have them sent to El Burgo. It was good news...we were able to reroute our bags and continue on our path. This was certainly a divine direction as on our current path the total miles for the day were less; therefore, making our next day 12.75 instead of 16 miles. To everything there is a reason.
This week we have had a few cold showers! The moans and groans of all of us hitting the shower were hysterical! Positive side of a cold shower- quick and invigorating!
Do you know why the pilgrim crossed over to the other side of the path?...to see if there were less rocks! No joke.
Lost my crocs! It appears someone needed them more than I as they were removed from the outer pocket of my backpack while waiting for transport. Will you understand that the crocs taken were not the issue as they certainly can be replaced. It was more that trust lies among the Camino and this cast a shadow on my expectation. Randy and I both feel it was someone who came in from the outside and took them. Probably not a sojourner.
Continuing on to Leon. This stretch of the road is a Roman road. It was the link to the gold mines of Gallaecia to Rome. Used by Ceasar Augustus. Now refers to as The Piligrim Road, Calzada de los Peregrinos.
I was taken in by my ability to continue to see extensions of the Pyrenes, referred to as Picos de Europa. Snow capped. Highest peak is 8,687 ft.
Our day into Leon was a drenching one. With the continued wind blowing. Some of our walk was on a heavily conjested highway. What rain did not befall on me was redistributed back on me by the big trucks! A mess!!!
Strange comparison of movement on the highway to the path which follows along side. Fast moving vehicles with purpose, intent, destination. Those walking the path; slow, meditative, continued journey.
There was a kaleidoscope of colors on the Way. Panchos and rain gear in reds, oranges, greens, purple, yellow. One Rosa! It was if flowers were blooming and populating before me and behind me.
I got so entranced by all the colors. At one point I believe I saw the brilliance of azul and citrine ahead of me...my Jonathan and Linda walking side by side turning to me and gesturing for me to keep coming! ❤️
Learned a new word today from an Irishman: niggle, a little more than a little. I am getting to have quite a vocabulary of words from all over the world. Perhaps my English will soon be hard to detect.
Leon- was a Roman military garrison. It has a gothic cathedral, Pulchra Leonina, 13th century. Has 125 stain glass windows. It's light coming in is in stark contrast to other churches, where very little light comes in.
Did you know that the chief function of the medieval church was to instruct the illiterate and to give them pictures they could understand to show the Gospels and the legends of the Saints.
This city also has the running of the bulls in June.
It not only took us two hours to get into city center of Leon but equal amount of time to get out! Finally reaching the quiet plains of the Meseta.
We struggled once again with an optional path. Not clearly marked at all. We joined another perplexed couple and together we migrated our way out of mud that tried to suck our shoes in. Aiming to put our steps on the high grasses, which was a challenge. Yet, we made it to dry road. A long and stretching path. Coming to a mucho surprise! A road side cocina. Drinks, snacks, trinkets and more, all for donation.
It is without words to tell you how endearing the Spanish have become to me. When walking through a village a man will come out his door to wish Buen Camino. A woman throwing open her shutters, waving and saying Camino. Greetings by everyone who happen on the streets.
Yesterday, our last nine miles for the week, I woke up at 5:30 to use the bathroom, I saw the woman who was in the bunk to my right, had one of the sinks lined up with make-up and lotions getting ready for her day. When coming to the sink and looking in the mirror, a big mistake, I just grinned at my reflection and headed by to the lovely warmth of my sleep sack for another half hour. Knowing she was taking the Vogue Way and I, well you know. Again, it is a personal journey.
In our little town of Hospital, trout soup is most popular. Knowing that trout has millions of bones I was most reluctant to order it. And I was right! A couple at one of the tables ordered it and was struggling to get through it.
We crossed over a bridge to come into the village. It is the best preserved bridge in Spain. Built over an earlier Roman bridge in 13th century. A famous jousting tournament took place here in 1434. A scorned knight threw down the gauntlet to any knight daring to cross the bridge. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. The knight held the bridge for a month. All this to save face of being scorned.
We took a Sunday stroll through the town. Watching a van honk its horn stopping at residences delivering bread! Hanging it on their iron fences if they did not come out. Most people came out to get their loaf. Coming back to our albergue, under the bridge we came across two men who had a picnic of meats, cheeses, fruits and vino. Partaking from the red hood of their vehicle. They gave me a piece of salmi.
You would think that two weeks short of two months, walking and resting in villages, cities, towns, I would be yearning for the comforts of home and faces I so love. There is a peace here. A simple life resonating in the townships and people. I am filled with the presence of it and grasping each moment, taking it into the fibers of my life. Weaving a most beautiful mantel that I will visualize and feel warmth for the rest of my days.
I do miss each of you and love holds fully for you! This time was to be and I am not ready for it to be
completed, until I know I am complete.
Schmooch!
Randy and Ilene
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