Disappointment registered for the first time since on the Camino. Upon arriving in Ponferrada, my Templar Castle was closed! In viewing the outside of the castle we marveled at the condition of the castle which was built in 1118. It has had some repairs, but, was pretty well in tack. It is picture perfect and would not be surprised if not used in time period movies. Truly expected a knight to come across the mote.
To Randy's gladness, a Burger King was located with only having to walk three miles for him to partake! He ate as a king and I had a organic pizza. Three miles back!!
We are headed for a few steep climbs. But, in this region we have been delighted by the vineyards interplayed with rose bushes, such sweet smelling! A rose by any other name... Finding cherry trees everywhere, where red tempting cherries were only being eaten by the birds as they were not exactly ripe.
Randomly, we came upon a man who had set up a little road side stand in the thick wooded area of our path. He was selling beautiful handcrafted leather. If only I had room and could manage the weight!! Here I met my first gentleman from Israel! Zeeki. We talked for a wee bit and then later met at our albergue; where I met his good friend Gadi. We talked politics, Natinyahu and America's importance to Israel.
As the terrain is changing along the way so is the growth of pilgrims on the path. Abundance of exuberanance radiates from each person who gives to the Way, in which we now are having more opportunity to walk and talk with different ones, making our journey all that much more sweeter!!!
A woman from California asked if she could walk with us, which of course was most welcome! When we parted, we asked if we could pray with her. We held hands and prayed. She was crying and said she was so touched by our personal embrace. This was the first since her beginning at St. Jean.
A surprise was in store for us, we had a room all to ourselves at an albergue! It was hard for me to get to sleep as I kept expecting some people to come in, waking up the next morning with a Wow! We had it all to ourselves, including the servicios!! Nice!
Onward and upward with three options to our path:
Strenuous and beautiful
Difficult and beautiful
Highway- and short
I will tell you which path we choose!
We made it to the top. Barely! 13.45 miles of steep incline and rugged path. I am learning that even upon a rugged way, you can find sure footing!
When I thought we had reached the summit, I quickly learned we had two more miles to go!! But, pulled myself up, adjusted my mind set and carries on. Alto...1,330. This was a training event for
The big one to come the next day.
At the albergue in O'Cebreiro, we bunked at an albergue with 300 other pilgrims. This was too much for us. Everywhere were people, packs and ponderance of distance for the following day. The sleeping arrangements were extremely strange for a married couple such as ourselves. We were assigned beds. The bunks were coupled together by twos. I was sleeping right next to a strange man and Randy was across from me sleeping next to a strange woman. This was very odd indeed!! The Camino way!!!
A young man from San Pedro, CA., Diamas. had the bunk behind Randy. They engaged in conversation as their commonality was construction. He is Hispanic with parents here with not even a grade school education. They made sure their four sons and one daughter had an education. Such a tender man towards family.
We had breakfast with him the next morning, parting, we prayed for him. He was so touched he kissed Randy and I each on the cheek, took a selfie and asked for our email address. What a darling!
We have now crossed into the Galicia region. It is said that the mountains in Galicia can be unpredictable. That being said, we continued our climb to alto, 4,380 feet. It was harder than I predicted and yet was greeted with a breath taking view.
I am learning through the options of life, given at certain junctures, that good directions seem
harder as life pulls me in various directions. Balance is the solution. Living life is our journey. Full of feelings, sensations and surprises. Each of us has our own "way". No two are alike and non transferable!
We now have started our decent heading for Triacastela in the pouring rain. Our backpacks start obsorb the constant down pour, as their rainfly is challenged, this adding to the weight and the drudgery of carrying them. But, the Galicia is so picturesque!!! Loving this region.
We have passed through some hamlets which once grew flax and used for linen trade. There appeared a specular rainbow!! Colors vivid and rewarding us with promise!!
I continue to have a bit of a struggle as I am still fighting what I now call kennel cough! From albergue living! Shared amongst the other sojourners.
My thoughts and consideration this past week have been recognizing how to let go of things that I desperately held on to at home. Lord, help me to hold on with my hands open.
At the end of the Pilgrims's guide to Santiago is a quote: "stop being who you were and change into who you are. When I reach Santiago, I will put a sign on my heart: COMPETO= FULL.
As we rest this weekend, we mapped out our itinerary which will have us arriving in Santiago on June 10. We were aiming for our anniversary on the 13th. But, not enough miles left to get us to that date! 🙃 I made our reservation at a B and B, PR Mafer. An eclectic little place, with charm of old and new. Right in the vicinity of the Cathedral. We will be there four days. A day trip to the beautiful coast of Finesterra. And then catching our flight home.
88 miles left to this pulchritude journey. Full of artistry and beauty beyond description.
Our last weekend will be next week. Will talk to you then.
Oh, yes, we took the difficult and beautiful path!!!
Love, Ilenea and Randero
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